Paint Tutorial – Imperial Assault AT-ST – Part 2

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Previous Posts in Series: Part 1Part 1.5

Now that the model is assembled, it is time to put paint to plastic. First, I primed the model. Despite my ambitious intentions, I only used Army Painter’s Uniform Gray spray primer to cover the entire model (and I went ahead and glued the legs to the base). I sprayed the entire model with a nice even coat of primer.

Prime

After I primed the model, I mixed Vallejo’s Cold Grey and Army Painter’s Matt White in approximately a 6 to 1 ratio to create a nice base layer. To apply the base layer, I used a small drybrush to gently apply the paint to the model, being careful not to let the paint glob into the small detail areas. Once the base coat was applied I used Citadel’s Leadbelcher base to paint the guns.

Guns

After the model was completely dry, using Army Painter’s Strong Tone, I gave the entire model a good wash. I made sure not to let the wash stain the broad surface areas too much. Using a paper towel, I continuously wiped the wash from these areas in a doward motion. This helped to create a weathered effect. However, with the AT-ST, an all-terrain walker, I was not too particular as some excess stain here and there only added to the battle-worn look.

After the wash was completely dry, I reapplied some of the base-coat paint to the broad surface areas to touch up the model. Next, I again mixed Vallejo’s Cold Grey and Army Painter’s Matt White in approximately a 6 to 2 ratio to create a lighter gray to add some highlights. I highlighted the model along the natural light-catching areas—the top of the model, the exposed areas on the back of the legs, and the top of any extremities. Next, I added some highlights using Citadel’s Leadbelcher. This helped to accentuate some of the machinery and to create a metallic mechanized look and feel. Applying the Leadbelcher delicately with a small detail brush, I was careful not to make unwanted marks on the model.

Next, using a small detail brush, I reapplied some of the Army Painter’s Strong Tone wash, making sure that every nook and cranny was covered so as to not miss any opportunity for detail. After the wash was completely dry, I mixed some Citadel Steel Legion Drab base, Citadel Carroburg Crimson wash, and Vallejo’s Sepia wash in an equal ratio. I used this watery mixture to add some rust and mud effects to the model. These were added under some of the nuts, bolts, and vents of the AT-ST.

Wash

Finally, I turned my attention to the base of the model. I applied Citadel’s Stirland Mud Texture liberally with a drybrush. I used Vallejo’s Umber Wash to spread the Stirland Mud around to ensure that the entire base was covered. Stirland Mud is a great base for many models and I use it often to create outdoor bases. Once the texture paint had dried, I used a few shades of brown and green to create some moss and grass effects. Finally, I finished by applying some Vallejo’s Sepia wash to the feet of the model.

Base

And there you have it. The AT-ST was relatively simple to paint and I am pretty happy with the way my model turned out. After I was finished, I felt motivated. So, I primed MHD-19 from the Return to Hoth box set using Army Painter’s Matt Black spray primer. Once the model was dry, I applied Citadel’s Leadbelcher base with a drybrush. Next, I applied some Army Painter’s Strong Tone wash and added a few points of detail to the eyes, chest, and hand-instrument using Vallejo’s Turquoise, Bloody Red, and Moon Yellow.

MHD-19

Next up, I’ll tackle some of the organics. . . maybe the Wampa or the Rancor? Until next time.

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Frank is an attorney and family man currently based out of Las Vegas. He's a long time gaming enthusiast with a tabletop interest in most dungeon crawlers and map strategy games. If it has dice and minis, it probably has his attention.
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